Celebrity
Cruises' ZENITH
Baltimore to Bermuda
Sailing: October
20-27, 2001
by Linda Coffman
It wasn't exactly the cruise
we planned, but Celebrity Cruises, the Port of Baltimore, and the crew
of the Zenith all worked hard to make it a memorable one.
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Zenith
(left) and Horizon dominate
Hamilton's picturesque waterfront |
Our documents indicated a 4 pm
sailing from New York City, the world's most spectacular port to begin
an ocean voyage. Unless you've been hiding in a cave you know that
terrorists crashed two jumbo jets into the World Trade Center on
September 11th and the New York City piers were pressed into service
for the ensuing emergency rescue and clean-up operations.
Instead of a flight to New York and
the gala Bon Voyage soirée in an elegant Manhattan eatery planned by
our friends, Mel and I set out on a road trip to Baltimore. We aren't afraid
to fly; it was just less stressful to pack up the car and go. Ten
hours on I-20 and I-95 was broken up with side trips and an overnight
stop in historic Williamsburg, Virginia.
This was to be a very special cruise
for us for a number of reasons and one was awaiting our arrival in the
hotel parking lot in Glen Burnie, Maryland. Andy was our
welcoming committee and it was a delight to be greeted in a strange city
by a familiar face--there's no feeling quite like it. We quickly
located the rest of our small cruise group, all online friends from
across the country. When Warren arrived a bit later, the party
was complete! Andy and Warren weren't sailing with us, but we shared a
festive dinner at Jimmy's Seafood Restaurant, a local favorite right
near the Dundalk Pier. The crab cakes were nearly as exceptional as
the company! It wasn't chic New York, but I was overwhelmed that my
dear friends went to so much trouble to meet us.
On Our Way
After consulting the directions
provided by the Dundalk Passenger
Terminal, our group of nine cruising friends (Judi and
Michael, Bob and Sheryl, Harry and Leona, John, and Mel and Linda) piled into three
vehicles and our mini-caravan headed for the pier. Documents were
required to enter the dock area and we were directed to "Shed
5" where the luggage was unloaded in orderly fashion. Bags were hefted
by porters onto a conveyor to be x-rayed and our proffered tips were
waved off with a smile and, "Not necessary, this is our
job!" Wow! What a welcome!! Checked items immediately went into
bins and we stepped aside with our carry-ons to await the arrival of our drivers. Secure parking was provided at a reasonable $5 per
day (payable in advance) and a complimentary shuttle brought Mel,
Michael, and Harry back to the Security check point.
It was an
efficient process and one that demonstrated careful planning.
Crowding was kept at a minimum as porters directed arriving passengers
to remain in their vehicles until their turn to unload. Inside the check-in area, the lines
were short and we breezed through the procedure at the Captain's Club
counter in record time.
On Board
Veterans of a Zenith cruise in 1999,
we had no trouble finding cabin 1062, a Category 3 on Deck 10. Although
staterooms were reportedly not "ready," we dropped off our
carry-ons and gathered in Judi and Michael's suite for champagne and
many toasts as their charming butler, Andrew, popped in and out. As
luggage began arriving, everyone wandered off to unpack before meeting
again--this time in the Fleet Bar for 6 PM sailaway festivities.
Although the port area is primarily
commercial, we watched the lights of Baltimore fade into the distance. Zenith made her way
through the Chesapeake Bay, finally reaching the open sea about 4 AM.
I admit, I missed that milestone.
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Michael's
Club |
A cooperative Atlantic presented
us with smooth seas and an enjoyable crossing to Bermuda. Due to our
late departure on Saturday and the time it took to reach the open
Atlantic, we didn't arrive in Bermuda until late afternoon on Monday.
No matter! There was plenty to do on board, with a myriad of
activities for those who wished to participate. We took advantage of
the time to catch up with our friends and work toward our goal of
total relaxation.
While exploring the Zenith, we noted
numerous improvements since our earlier cruise. The addition of
Michael's Club was a big hit with cigar aficionado Mel and the other
smokers in our group. Cova Cafe quickly became a favorite spot to sip
specialty coffees and treat ourselves to morning pastries and decadent
afternoon chocolate treats. The art-deco Martini Bar was always
crowded before dinner, but it was no problem being served their
specialties from comfortable seats in the adjacent Rendez-vous
Lounge. The Fleet Bar remains our lounge of choice and we met there
for port departures and arrivals to take advantage of the panoramic views
and forward-facing open deck. All ships should be designed with such
an agreeable space.
Bermuda
Land ho! Our afternoon arrival meant
not a lot available to do ashore, but we took advantage of the time to purchase
our bus/ferry passes. The balcony of Flanagan's Pub was an agreeable
spot to catch the activities on Hamilton's
waterfront and sample a pint of local ale. Zenith is disadvantaged
in that it has no balcony staterooms, but the second floor pubs
overlooking Front Street are a pleasant alternative.
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"Swizzle
Inn & Swagger Out" |
Big plans were afoot for Tuesday. The
Swizzle Inn is a 17th century Bermuda landmark and you
can't beat the Swizzle Burgers and Bermuda's national drink, the Rum
Swizzle, which originated there. The Nos. 10 and 11
buses stop right out front (and Swizzle Inn is conveniently listed on the Public
Transport Schedule). We had a great time and swaggered out full of
good food and spirits.
On our bus ride back to Hamilton, Mel
made a remark about crazy tourists and a delightful young schoolgirl
responded, "Oh no, we enjoy your company." Judi remarked
later, "That comment by the
Whitney Institute Netball player really hit me. That attitude, which
is displayed by most all Bermudans, is the reason that I love Bermuda
and would gladly go back time and again!" I
couldn't agree more.
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Even
a simple ferry ride is a civilized
treat in Bermuda |
Although we've been on three
Celebrity cruises to Bermuda, Mel and I just can't get enough of the
island's scenic beauty, particularly as seen from the water.
We took full advantage of our passes and rode the ferries several times
just to sit back and take pleasure in the sights.
Zenith repositioned to St. George's
on Wednesday and the beautiful day called for a late al fresco lunch at the
waterfront Carriage House. My
traditional Bermuda-style fish chowder was excellent--spicy and full
of seafood. Our waiter described the scene when Norwegian Majesty
snapped her mooring lines during a recent storm and headed right for
the restaurants fronting Water Street. Scary!
Departure
on Thursday was advanced several hours than earlier scheduled due to
our Baltimore destination. Squeaking through the channel, local
residents and St. George's Town Crier waved to us from the rocky shore
and called out, "See you next year!" It was the end of
Zenith's last Bermuda cruise of the season.
Despite our shortened time in
Bermuda, we had lovely weather and a pleasurable stay. I am partial to
revisiting favorite vacation spots and ports of call because I am
comfortable in familiar surroundings. I always feel at home in Bermuda
and I have the same feeling about the Zenith. Her mid-size (47,255
tons) and passenger capacity (1,375 double occupancy) contribute much
to the cozy ambiance of an exclusive club.
What You WILL Find
on Zenith:
- Tasteful, understated decor, an
elegant marble lobby, and exquisite artwork.
- Spacious staterooms with generous
storage, robes, hairdryer,
and bathroom amenities. A carafe of ice water is a special touch.
- Unobtrusive and professional
service, including butlers to assist suite passengers.
- Fine dining and creative
presentation.
- An improved casual buffet with
omelet and pasta stations for breakfast and lunch and casual
"bistro" style evening dining (by reservation only).
- The "signature" features
of Celebrity Cruises' newest vessels: Michael's Club, Cova Cafe,
Martini Bar, a flower shop, and a scaled down version of the Aqua Spa.
- Activities and entertainment to
satisfy a wide range of tastes.
- A well-run Youth Program,
Children's Soda Drink cards, and
in-cabin babysitting when staffing permits.
- A traditional schedule of formal,
informal, and casual dress evenings.
What You Will NOT
Find on Zenith:
- Glitz, flashing lights, and a
multi-deck atrium.
- Balconies.
- Annoying announcements.
- A self-service laundry.
In View of 9/11
No one in our small group considered
canceling, although our travel plans underwent a dramatic change. I
spoke to only one couple on the Zenith who attempted to postpone their
cruise--an elderly couple from Long Island with more than 150 cruises
to their credit. They weren't thrilled about embarking in Baltimore,
but decided to take the bus transportation offered by Celebrity rather
than forfeit their deposit.
For me, it was almost a relief to not
sail from New York and pass the sadly diminished skyline. On board
Zenith, we
were reassured by the additional security measures we observed. All
future cruise passengers should be prepared to show a picture ID along
with their boarding pass, not only when reboarding vessels in
port, but also before going ashore.
There's no time like the present to
get a passport, the best form of identification anyone can possess. In
days gone by, only one American family member was required to appear at
Customs on debarkation morning and only foreign nationals reported to
Immigration. Every passenger now must appear before Customs and
Immigration and no one leaves the vessel until everyone has cleared.
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"See
you next year!" |
And what about next year? Will Zenith
and other cruise ships resume sailing to Bermuda from the Big Apple? Mr. Filippos Georgiou,
Hotel Manager of Zenith feels 99% certain they will. He has enormous
confidence in the American spirit and stated most emphatically,
"Americans can do anything." That statement, along with the
sparkle in his eyes and his generous smile, were enough to melt this
cruiser's heart.
A very special thank you to Captain
Michail Margaritis, Hotel Manager Filippos Georgiou, Social Hostess
Brenda Wallace, Guest Relations Manager Carl Vlaeminck, the
officers and staff of Zenith, our hosts at the Swizzle
Inn, and the citizens of Bermuda... we'll never forget your kindness
during what was a stressful period for many of us.
To the people and Port of
Baltimore -- Well Done!
This review is dedicated
to our hard-working travel agent, Mary Ann Rizzo... you were sorely
missed!
Cruising to
Bermuda
- Beautiful
Bermuda -- Pink sand
and sparkling water. A cruise is the ideal Bermuda get-away.
- Bermuda
-- Probably the most
popular misconception about Bermuda is that it’s a Caribbean
island. It isn’t.
- Zenith
Review -- Our 1999 sailing.
Photos Courtesy Celebrity
Cruises & Author's Collection
Copyright ©
2001 Linda Coffman
