If you were to close your eyes and dream of a
tropical paradise, you'd wake up in French Polynesia. From the azure
seas, to the cloud encrusted volcanic mountains, the Society Islands
make the path for the Radisson Seven Seas cruise ship, the Paul
Gauguin. For seven days, you are a part of a dream which compels you
to stand back, and just admire what the best that nature has to offer.
If one were to imagine a more idyllic magical
place, Moorea would come into mind. This is my favorite of the islands
on the itinerary of the ship: Raiatea, Motu Tahaa, Bora Bora and
Moorea. Every morning you wake up to your dream, just by looking
outside your balcony. Cruising for me is the best way to take a
vacation, since you are part of the environment you are moving
through, you naturally see and do more than you would on any
land-based vacation. Every morning and every evening is different, for
the sea rarely treats you to the same mood twice but always surprises
you at the end of the day with an incredible sunset.
The Paul Gauguin was built specifically with
this voyage in mind, and does so to an almost full ship each week of
the year. Winter is typically hot (very hot) and with short periods of
rain, while the summer brings some needed relief in the form of cooler
temperatures (and no rain). The rain never lasted more than a few
minutes (except on the island of Tahiti) and helped to help cool
things off and while umbrellas are provided, I found them not
necessary in most cases because of the short duration.
The people of French Polynesia are very warm,
kind and gentle. While they say that it is not Polynesian culture to
tip, I think it will become more of the norm as tourists keep
innocuously shedding a bit of culture as they travel amongst the
Society Islands. For now though, it's refreshing not to have to tip
and believe that somebody is serving you because they truly want
to.
Travel arrangements made through
Radisson/Carlson Travel will assure you quality flights and all the
necessary transfers and hotel stays, and for this trip all ran
smoothly. Friday night before the cruise I flew into LA, and stayed at
the Airport Hilton. While it wasn't the most modern of hotels, it had
it's purpose and was fine for one night.
Friday night I went out to Manhattan Beach and
with my friend Marni ate at a very good restaurant called,
"Beaches" (117 Manhattan Beach Blvd) and had an incredible
dinner, along with a few martini's. Marni had the Chipolte Salmon
(which was slightly hot, with a fusion of wonderful flavors) while I
opted for the Surf (filet mignon) and Turf (grilled shrimp with a
salsa seasoning). Both of the meals were outstanding. The evening was
capped off with "Mud Pie" which was a scintillating
chocolate lovers dream. Overlooking the Pacific, it was a nice prelude
to a cruise which would begin the next day.
The next morning I ate the complimentary
buffet breakfast at the Hilton, then proceeded to the airport via the
hotel shuttle. The Air Tahiti Nui flight from LAX to Papeete, Tahiti
lasted a very long eight and a half hours. I got to the airport early,
and requested a business-class upgrade for $600 one-way, and was glad
I did. For the hours before the flight, I was treated to the Quantas
VIP Lounge where you were treated to a variety of light snack foods,
and an open bar of a fine selection of wines and various liquors.
The Airbus was fully loaded, and those in the
back were quite cramped. On the way back, I wasn't as lucky to get the
upgrade and sat in back, but was pleasantly surprised since we were on
a new Airbus (only had flown that route three times prior) and had
more comfortable seats. On the first jet, they only offered Business
Class (three rows of two seats across). The newer Airbus offered a
First Class (three seats), then Business Class, then Economy, which
was 2-4-2 seats across. Service in the Business Class was excellent,
and we were all given more than enough to drink and offered about a 10
course meal over the period of eight hours. At the beginning of the
flight, you're given a Pua (small flower), which is predominant in the
Tahitian archipelago. It's a classy touch.
Arriving at Papeete around 8:30pm, I cleared
customs, was on the bus, and on the ship within about a half hour. The
embarkation process is smooth and efficient. After a digital photo is
taken for security purposes, the staff collects your passport and then
you are whisked away to your cabin (while being offered a
"welcome aboard" glass of champagne). I barely made the
9:30pm closing of the main restaurant in L'Etoile and imagine that
some of the late embarking passengers probably had to order room
service. The first night I was lucky to pick La Palette lounge as my
destination, and ended up having a night cap with my new British
friends (living in Houston), Sean and Rose.
My cabin (707 on Deck 7) was a well appointed,
compact, but very comfortable stateroom. The balcony was great, and
provided a nice vantage point for some relaxing moments while the
islands passed slowly by. The mini-fridge is fully stocked, and you
get your choice of one premium or two stock bottles of liquor or wine.
I also had a bottle of champagne chilling for me upon my arrival.
Bottled water and soft drinks were replenished daily, but I never even
touched the bottles of liquor since there was complementary wine at
dinner, not to mention the fantastic drinks at the shipboard lounges.
The strategic use of mirrors and beautifully
crafted wood veneer walls and cabinetry makes the cabin seem huge,
when in reality it's very compact. I never felt crowded, and the
lighting was perfect. The bathroom was also compact, but had a lavish
white marble floor, sink and countertop, again, with plenty of
mirrors. I always had hot water, and fresh towels always seemed to
appear from nowhere. I used room service three times, and it was
prompt, courteous and efficient. Even at 1:30am, I had food in my
cabin within 20 minutes.
This will be the first cruise in which I
brought several digital cameras and my iBook (notebook computer).
There are both 115V and 220 V outlets for all your digital gear
(recharging). The in-suite TV even had a external video feed so that
you could watch the results of your digital or video camera.
Over the course of the coming week, our daily
routine would be to cruise a short distance to a new island (usually
from sunrise to midmorning) and then after dropping anchor in some
beautiful bay, the tenders would be lowered for shore access. Also
during this time, the rear marina platform would be lowered to provide
passengers with sea kayaking, water skiing, or even windsurfing. I did
try the sea kayaking in Bora Bora, and then windsurfing in Cooks Bay,
Moorea. When evening came, the tenders would be hoisted onto the ship,
and guests would choose between the many pre-dinner venues and then
select from any of the three main dining areas for a scrumptious
meal.
Since I was spoiled last year aboard the
Radisson Diamond (we only had 140 passengers on a ship which typically
had about 320), I wasn't sure what to expect on this cruise. My
favorites on this cruise were the reception staff, who knew me by
name.
Of the regular ships staff, Michael Shapiro
(Cruise Director), Lorene and Claudia (Social Hosts), and Giovanni
(Head Bartender) all greeted me the entire week by name, and really
made the effort to make sure all was well. While it may seem a bit
trivial, the hallmark of a outstanding staff is their ability to call
you by name. It's not easy to do with an ever changing passenger
roster, but it makes an unmistakable impression on a
person (as was the case here and
on my Diamond cruise.)
The cabin stewardess and steward did a fine
job, as did the restaurant staff. I was impressed after I requested an
off-the-menu item (sushi/sashimi) that they knew exactly who I was
every night. But I wasn't impressed when I had to give them a 24-hour
notice when I wanted it. I mean really, how do I know what I'll want
24-hours in advance? My solution--just make it every night! It
worked. I had wonderful sushi or sashimi every night. On the Radisson
Diamond, the restaurant staff knew me by name, and would always have a
chilled coke at my table even before I knew I wanted it. I realize
it's difficult to achieve the outstanding level of service, but that
is what I'm expecting from Radisson. It's a class act, and I'll hold
them to it.
As far as the food goes, the specialty of the
ship was undoubtedly French. In La Verandah (reservations required),
they would regularly offer a multi-course French dinner. Since I'm not
a fan of truly French food, I'll reserve comment. Others I spoke with
were quite satisfied, comparing the quality to land-based restaurants.
At any of the restaurants, complimentary wine (red and white) was
served, of a very good quality. As for me, I ate mostly in the main
dining room L'Etoile, which offered a more continental cuisine,
usually opting for the filet mignon or fish entree's. There was
another (more casual) open-air dining up at Le Grill on the top deck.
But I never ate there because it was always still too hot outside
(even in the evening just after sunset) to dine.
For breakfast and lunch, you may eat in one of
the inside dining rooms, or opt to eat outside on deck at Le Grill.
Aboard the Radisson Diamond for lunch every day they'd set up a
charcoal grill and prepare a-la minute your favorite hamburger, steak
or fish. On the Paul Gauguin, the cooking at Le Grill was done inside,
and most likely with gas or electric. While the food was good, nothing
compares to the taste of freshly charcoal grilled burgers or fish.
Again, it's setting that standard of excellence that I'm looking for.
However trivial a charcoal grill may be, it sets the tone of
outstanding quality. Personally, I'd like to see wood fired ovens or
grills aboard every ship. You can't surpass the amazing taste of wood
or charcoal grilled food.
For the "piece d' resistance", I'd
like to see the following items: carved ice sculptures as a dining
room feature at dinner, carved melons at least once during the week,
and a shaved ice machine for afternoon delights, and some fun
after-dinner drinks (such as shaved ice martini's.) While I may have
missed the ice sculpture and melons... it was one feature on the
Radisson Diamond that made an unmistakable impression on me. It's
classy and fun.
My favorite time of the day aboard a cruise
ship is magic hour. It's at the end of the day, when the sun slowly melts
into the distant horizon, and paints a beautiful sky, marking the end
of another wonderful day cruising. For me, this means finding a perch
at the highest point of the ship, while sipping on a cool martini and
waiting for just that right moment to take a digital photo to capture
it all, for you to see.
On the Paul Gauguin, the bar, La Paletta is
located on the highest deck eight, and is probably my most favorite
place to hangout on the ship. This multifaceted room is at once a
martini bar, Canapés pre-dinner bar, a piano bar, a disco and even
has room for a small band. Its indoor-outdoor pavilion can keep you
cool from the heat, while allowing you to enjoy the tropical Moon
outside just a few steps away. Not only was La Paletta my favorite
sunset and before dinner haunt, but it turned out to be the best after
dinner (after show) bar as well.
I wasn't expecting much for entertainment
aboard the ship, but was pleasantly surprised by several visits by
local (traditional) Polynesian dancers, a magic act, and even a
brilliant one-man Broadway Review from our own talented Cruise
Director, Michael Shapiro. In La Paletta, it was the piano bar
featuring the sharp witted Hal Fraser who sang excellent renditions of
all your favorite songs. In both the stage area (Le Grand Salon) and
at times near the pool or La Paletta, the small band, El Siglo
entertained passengers with singing and playing both retro and
contemporary songs.
My favorite talent of the cruise was Michael
Shapiro. Not only was he an outstanding Cruise Director, but he has
enough talent singing and composing that it won't be long before a
producer-type will snatch him away from Radisson. Michael is a great
people person, and not that over-smiley type Cruise Director you can
get on most cruises. His down-to- earth humor and sincerity make him a
great asset to Radisson. His effort shows daily, and he was able to
call most of the passengers on a first-name basis by the end of the
week.
The other equally favorite talent on the ship
was Hal Fraser, who played nightly requests at the piano bar in La
Paletta. Hal had a steady following every night of the week at La
Paletta, and it just shows how Radisson really seeks out the best of
creative talent. It's not easy playing to a small crowd with such
varied musical tastes.
As far as evening wear goes, there was a great
variety aboard the ship. While the standard is "resort
casual" which I would term contemporary tropical casual, sported
Hawaiian print shirts seeming to be the norm with slacks for the
gents, and a variety of tropical dresses or pants suits for the
ladies. I actually prefer to dress up when I go to dinner on ships,
and would regularly wear a basic suit coat, shirt and tie. Most men
wore a short sleeved shirt and slacks. This is one cruise where you
could actually get by with one carry-on piece of luggage for the
entire week. On other cruises, there is a formal night, which requires
a bit more upscale clothes such as a tuxedo or suit, (or formal gown
for women) none of which are needed during this week afloat.
The staff and passengers aboard the cruise
were outstanding. The reception desk crew were always cheerful, and
always willing to answer any question. They were addressing me by name
every day. The passengers on this cruise were also a diverse and fun
mix of people. Don't wait until the last night to say hello to fellow
passengers. Making friends is always one of the best parts of
cruising. Some of them will undoubtedly become friends for a lifetime.
Our cruise had 260 passengers, so we were well
under the capacity of 320. There were never lines and the only small
wait you had was between the 30 minute tender schedule from ship to
shore. The ship always anchored out, except at the port in Papeete,
Tahiti. If you wanted to water-ski, you needed to visit the
reservations desk to schedule a time. And while they always seemed
full, I never heard of anyone not getting a time slot, albeit they
might have to be a bit more flexible in time selections.
As for the itinerary, I think the draw for
most people to the South Pacific will be the tropical islands of Bora
Bora and Moorea. The Paul Gauguin has an excellent choice of islands
for this cruise which included the favorites. Of the entire voyage, a
few land based restaurants are worth seeking out. Have dinner at
Bloody Mary's on Bora Bora. This is one of the most charming and
exotic restaurants in the world. Skip lunch, and just go there for
dinner. You select from a buffet of fresh fish, shellfish and meats
for your dinner, then they will cook them over a grill to perfection.
You may also have a portion of each if you want to try more than one
entree. The quality of the food was outstanding, of course you have to
love anything that's cooked on a grill, to order. The sand floors,
thatched roof, with the towering peaks of Bora Bora silhouetting the
waterfront pier make for the most magical of dining experiences. The
night I was there with a family and another couple, we were graced by
some short periods of rain, followed by a beautiful Moon which peeked
out amongst the clouds and volcanic peaks.
The other place I loved was lunch at Bali-Ha'i
Hotel at Cooks Bay in Moorea. The waterfront restaurant has some of
the prettiest views in the world. You can look to your right and she
the Paul Gauguin at anchor, and just to the left you can see the
tropical green covered peaks which surround the bay. Occasionally,
you'll see a local with an outrigger canoe slowly paddling by. The
food is cooked outside, and you have a small selection of fish or
meat, which is prepared in Polynesian style, with local herbs and
fruit. Combined with the local brew, you are assured a lunch to
remember. Moorea is where some segments of "An Affair to
Remember" was filmed and you can see why they picked this
French Polynesian backdrop for the on-location portion of paradise.
When roaming around the islands, it is wise to
carry some of the local currency. In French Polynesia it is the CFP
(Cour de Franc Pacifique) or French Pacific Franc. In January 2003 the
exchange rate was about 116 CFP to one U.S. Dollar. Onboard ship,
expect about a 100 CFP for each dollar. At first I wasn't going to get
any, but decided to get around $100 USD worth for lunch, taxis, and
the Internet cafe. I always pay with m American Express when
possible, so I don't have to carry around cash.
French Polynesia is on the cellular GSM
network, so unless you have a European compatible cell, don't expect
service here. You can buy phone cards on any of the islands. Expect to
pay $15 a minute for the ship phone which utilizes a satellite
connection. If you need to check or send an email, the ship does offer
a service, but I'd recommend a less expensive and more timely access
by using one of the Internet cafe's on Bora Bora (near the docks),
Moorea, or Papeete. Expect to pay 40 Francs per minute for island
Internet access. The ship email service charges on a per kilobyte
basis, and emails are sent out in batch format at the end of the
day.
While I did not buy any black pearls, the
pearl farmers are everywhere and shops that sell them are easy to
find. I heard that Moorea is the best place to buy them, with many
people buying just the pearls, and having them mounted back home
through their local jeweler.
Radisson has teamed up with some of the local
tour outfits to provide a wide variety of island tours, ranging from
diving, fishing, to sightseeing. On Raiatea I took the Faaroa River
Tour which provided an excellent introduction to the island and the
Polynesian way of life. Half of the tour was on a motorized outrigger
canoe, followed by a drive up into the foothills in a off-road
vehicle. Along the way we stopped to admire the amazing variety of
tropical foliage, and to see the many waterfalls which shed the
showers of rain that fall on the green covered escarpment.
On Bora Bora I elected to take the Off Road
Adventure where we got to drive up some pretty rough roads to some of
the many gun emplacements from World War II. The views from these
heights are incredible. The tour eventually will take you around the
entire island, with a stop at Bloody Mary's for a cool drink. Along
the way the drivers would stop and serve up some fresh island fruit,
such as pineapple, coconut, grapefruit, cantaloupe and others. I have
to say that the fresh pineapple was some of the best I have ever
tasted.
On Moorea I took the 25 minute Helicopter
Tour of the island which provided spectacular views of both the ocean,
reefs and mountains. There were a lot of other tours offered, all of
which got high marks from passengers, but probably the most talked
about were the Wave Runner Tours, offered in Bora Bora and some of the
other islands. In this tour, you get to actually circumnavigate the
entire island. American Express offered some complimentary tours and
socials if you purchased your cruise with the AMEX card. While the
first tour on Bora Bora was full, the next one at Moorea only had a
few people.
To get the most out of this cruise, I
recommend the following...
- Try not to do too much. Too many tours do
not allow you time to relax. While you may want to see all there is to
see, take time to step back and become part of the environment.
- Take time to adventure on your own. Some of
the best adventures are ones you create. While French is the main
language, almost everyone understands English so getting around is not
a problem. The unique friendly nature of Polynesians will have you
greeting constantly with smiles and a "may I help you"
attitude.
- Wear plenty of sunscreen and a hat. The
tropical near-Equator Sun is strong. Don't kid yourself, a bad sunburn
can really ruin your vacation.
Almost everything aboard this ship was done
right, or was at least the result of many years of an evolutionary process
of trying to get it perfect. Radisson excels in this area. The only
competition for Radisson is Silverseas and Seabourn, with most
passengers I spoke with, more were leaning towards Radisson or
Silverseas since there are a few more people on the ships.
When selecting a cruise, I'm looking for at
least one of the following criteria which will really make the cruise
a special event; the ship, itinerary and people aboard. On this
cruise, the itinerary and people were fantastic. While the ship layout
was efficient and easy to get around, I though it just had a lack of
character. The Paul Gauguin has an austere ship interior
design was purposely not meant to detract from the beautiful islands
and sights outside. However, most people take cruises to be on a ship,
so the ship for me is always part of the destination.
While the ship itself has stabilizers, the
shallow draft contributes to its roll at sea. While I find this rhythm
very relaxing, a few others were well on their way to getting slightly
seasick on the first night. Luckily, after the first nights passage,
the ship rarely moves. The waters within the reefs near the islands
are almost perfectly flat. You'll barely feel the ship move while at
anchor. Since reefs protect all of these islands, you are assured a
quiet anchor.
Quiet that is, except for the numerous fish
jumping at night. It seems as though there is a nightly show that
nature puts on, right outside your balcony. The lights of the ship
attract some insects on the water, which in turn, attract smaller
fish, and finally, bigger fish. Late at night, the fish are jumping
all over the place. It's great entertainment to watch, and some big
Barracuda can be seen darting around the waters below. It's just one
more part of the magic show which slowly unveils itself throughout the
voyage. I hope that on the next ship Radisson builds for this area,
that they have some underwater lights that they put on a few hours
each night, to enhance the viewing of the fish feeding.
The only comments which were made known to me
by the passengers were, "I wish there were more shade." The
top deck (during the winter months) gets so hot that you have to be
careful not to burn your feet, and the staff regularly will give the
hot deck a dousing of water to cool it off. Nature helps during the
rainy season by providing some short, but relieving showers during the
early afternoon. It never rained more than a few minutes during the
cruise, but Tahiti (Papeete) seemed to get more than the rest of the
islands. In Australia, they use a huge triangular fabric shade in the
outback, and something like that would work well on this ship.
Another passenger observed that the bed
mattresses were uncomfortable at times, and I would agree. Although it
may seem minor, it won't take much to make the Paul Gauguin an
outstanding ship in every conceivable manner. As far as ships go, my
general rule of thumb for a heavily used ship is to have it replaced
every five years. While the upkeep on this ship is excellent, the age
of the ship is starting to show, and I'd like to see
