Curaçao
Spend a Day in
Port
by
Linda Coffman
Sometimes a port of
call visited on a cruise just grabs you and you have to go back for
more. The
moment I saw Curaçao for the first time, I knew it was one of those
magical places that I hoped to revisit.
And so, a word in
Papiamento, the local vernacular... Bon bini—or welcome to Curaçao.
Why
Curaçao?
The Dutch architecture
along the waterfront could be oddly misplaced were it not for the
whimsical colors and warmth of the residents. The vivid pastels set
a cheerful tone one encounters throughout the island. Plus, and this
is a BIG plus, Curaçao sits below the Caribbean "hurricane
belt" and Mother Nature's vicious storms seldom come calling.
In fact, while I was there in late-August 2006, Hurricane Ernesto
was threatening islands to the north and nearly all of Florida. We
had scattered clouds in Curaçao, but not even a sprinkle of rain.
Passengers from Royal Caribbean's Adventure of the Seas came
ashore to enjoy a perfect sunny day while I was there.
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|
Sun-dappled
courtyard
Kura Hulanda |
You
weren't on a cruise? Why not?
While I've spent port days in
Curacao on several occasions, I wanted to explore the
entire island. Cruise passengers are limited in their amount of time
ashore yet, even with that constraint, they can choose among the many
adventures available for a satisfying day in port. And they just might
want to return as I did.
Where
did you stay?
Across the water from Willemstad in Otrobanda,
Hotel Kura
Hulanda, is just
steps from the St. Anna Bay waterfront and the Queen Emma floating
bridge. Rescued from decline by entrepreneur Jacob Gelt Dekker,
Hotel Kura Hulanda covers eight blocks of lovingly restored 18th
century buildings. The 80 rooms that comprise the boutique hotel are
individually furnished in antiques and reproductions, but with all
the modern comforts--cable television, broadband Internet
connectivity, small refrigerators, air conditioning, and marble
bathrooms. The property blends in so seamlessly that it's a sort of
village within the city with cobbled walkways, a spa, restaurants,
shops, and an acclaimed anthropological museum. I
was surprised to discover that I'd been there previously when I
wandered in during a day in port just last year.
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|
Synagogue Mikvé
Isreal-Emanuel |
What
did you do?
High on my list of
things-to-do was a walk around
historic Willemstad. Following the Curaçao
Tourist Board Architectural Walking Guide, I began at Fort
Amsterdam and passed the Governor's Palace, Fort Church, and other
government buildings on the way to Waterfort. Part of the city's
defensive fortifications, Waterfort is now the home to restaurants
and shops. I then headed across town and stopped at Synagogue Mikvé
Isreal-Emanuel, the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the western
hemisphere. Built between 1730-1732, the exterior is typical of the
local architectural style. Surprisingly, the floor inside is sand,
in remembrance of the forty years the Jewish people spent wandering
in the desert. From there, I headed to the floating market where
Venezuelan fishermen offload their catch each day and merchants sell
tropical fruits and vegetables from stalls lining the wharf. I
couldn't pass up the wonderful smells wafting from the Old Market,
where lunch was being readied over charcoal fires and the most
expensive meals are about $7. And, of course, there is shopping
downtown!
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|
Shark
enclosure & a friendly brown pelican at Sea Aquarium |
For the afternoon, I
was off to the Sea
Aquarium and a REAL adventure for a timid swimmer like me.
With snorkel gear, fins, and a flotation vest, I joined others in
the deep water enclosure to get up close and feed sharks, giant sea
turtles, stingrays, and tropical fish. The sharks and turtles are
behind wire and glass enclosures and they are very aware of the
circular openings where swimmers can offer them food. I was so awe
struck that my fear of swimming in water over my head was forgotten.
If that encounter sounds a bit much, there are dozens of underwater
exhibits inside the Sea Aquarium to view, as well as the adjacent Dolphin
Academy where numerous encounters and training shows are
offered. Oh, and don't forget the pelicans and the flamingoes and
the sea lions. There's a lot to see and it's a great place to
introduce children to wonderful sea creatures.
For adventure on land,
I was off to try my hand at Eric's
ATV-Adventures. Unfortunately, in additional to being a
lousy swimmer I have a really sensitive back and had to bow out. I
was really disappointed when my friends returned from their off-road
ride... I missed out on scenic vistas, isolated beaches, and great
fun. Check with your shore excursion desk to see if they are
featuring this tour!
I did manage to get
lost in Curaçao. Actually,
make that lost in history at
the Museum Kura Hulanda, whose mission is "To acquire
and exhibit collections related to the cultural identity of the
people of Curaçao, the
Caribbean, and the Atlantic Rim." It's a revelatory experience
built on land that was once used as a slave market. The rich
collection of artifacts and exhibits follows the heritage of
islanders from Africa to the Caribbean. One in particular that
touches visitors is life-size reconstruction of a slave ship hold.
The museum is so fascinating that I lost all track of time.
Beaches,
Food & Favorites...
