Renaissance R6
Venice to Barcelona
October 30—November 14, 2000
By
Linda Coffman
What
is it with our cats? Fifteen nights and days of the
Mediterranean’s most intriguing ports of call awaited us on this
highly anticipated cruise. The
cats eyed our preparations with their usual suspicion.
Fortunately, the dog fell in love with her new pet sitters so we
were comfortable leaving them for our lengthiest cruise to date.
Departure day dawned and Mel and I set off for adventure and
romantic destinations on Renaissance
Cruises' new R6. After
an uneventful flight to Venice and vaporetto transfer from airport to
pier we were on board, unpacked, and energized.
Dining early in the Panorama Buffet, we pored over options for
tours and decided our night in Venice would only be complete with a
gondola ride and a moonlight stroll through Piazza San Marco.
Venice
hadn’t changed a bit in the thirty-eight years since I was there as
an au pair and its splendor delighted Mel. What a joy it
was to share these familiar sights with him and his reaction to the
Leaning Tower of Pisa was a delight. But I'm getting ahead of
myself...
Our
Venice Highlights tour the next morning took us to the Doge’s
Palace, across the Bridge of Sighs and into the “five star” jail,
and through St. Mark’s Cathedral. We topped off the morning at
Café Florian and the first of our coffee breaks.
I’m a coffee lover and there’s nothing like cappuccino in
Italy and café au lait in France, unless it was the wonderfully
brewed coffee in our next port, Dubrovnik.
Even our reading
hadn’t prepared us for the sight of the old medieval city of
Dubrovnik's seamlessly restored buildings and historic treasures.
After gaining independence in 1991, the city came under UNESCO
protection and we were fortunate to be able to visit this jewel by the
sea. Welcomed heartily,
we picked our way through the ancient streets in a drizzle and then a
downpour. Even slightly
damp it was one of the friendliest ports we’ve been privileged to
experience.
The
lush green countryside of Corfu beckoned us next.
An unusual mixture of cactus and ferns dots the landscape and
huge olive trees stand testament to the island’s major crop.
Rain held off as we strolled the serene gardens of Achilleion
Palace, home of Elisabeth last queen of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Corfu Town’s colonial atmosphere and esplanade invited
strolling and quiet contemplation.
Even with the adjacent old fortress to explore, we managed a
bit of relaxation under an arched colonnade with revitalizing java on
the main square facing the Royal Palace.
Sunshine
and warmer weather heralded the R6's arrival in Malta.
The variety of climates we encountered in the Mediterranean
autumn made planning something of a challenge but everyone seemed to
rise above it. Once
ashore we explored Valletta and marveled at the priceless tapestries
in the Grand Masters’ Palace. Then
we were off to Mdina, the imposing walled city designed for the summer
pleasure of the Grand Masters. On
a cool mountainside, it must have been a splendid respite from
Valletta’s hot humid summers. Just as they had two years ago,
dockside vendors set up tables to display their wares beside our
vessel and sold everything from tee shirts and filigree jewelry to
hand knit sweaters that were a steal at only $30.
Country
hopping, our next port of call in Messina, Sicily brought us back to
Italy and we were off to Taormina to walk through the medieval streets
and enjoy the view of Mt. Etna from the impressive Greek Theater.
With a free afternoon, back in Messina we explored the
Cathedral and its Treasury full of religious artifacts and relics
while waiting for the Campanile to mark the half hour.
A small crowd gathered to watch the figures move in and out of
the elaborate structure as the clock chimed in the tower.
A
fine morning greeted us in Naples and we set off for ancient Pompeii.
Hidden for centuries under the ash of Mt. Vesuvius’ 79 AD
eruption, it was an astonishing sight.
Perfectly preserved frescoes highlight the mansions of the
wealthy and the baths and markets offer insight into their daily
lives. Even the
construction of the streets was carefully planned to control flooding.
Amazing! After an
excellent luncheon we admired Sorrento and the shops containing the
fine wood inlay items for which the city is noted.
Unfortunately,
our lovely weather didn’t last.
What a surprise it was to see tugboats gently nudging R6 into
her berth in Civitavecchia, the port city for Rome.
Ominous clouds and high winds punctuated our arrival.
Tours went off as scheduled but I planned to stay aboard to do
laundry since I visited Rome just two years ago.
Thus occupied, I missed the repositioning of our vessel to a
safer berth while the weather further deteriorated.
My afternoon plans included taking the complimentary shuttle
into the old city of Civitavecchia but driving rain convinced me to
return to the ship almost immediately.
Instead, an afternoon of spa treatments was an inviting
alternative. As luck
would have it, I had the next day to explore the old city, its
fortress, cathedral, and market, as we were unable to enter the harbor
of Livorno as scheduled. In
the interest of safety, we stayed put and many passengers were
delighted with the opportunity to spend a second day in Rome.
Besides, even tied up at a sheltered anchorage we felt the
angry waves and no one relished the idea of being tossed about at sea.
My
major disappointment was not seeing Florence again.
But Mel had never been to Pisa and we simply couldn’t NOT see
the Leaning Tower up close. It
was a good decision as he was awestruck and our tour also included
Lucca, a positively fascinating walled city.
Good
weather held as we headed for France and Ajaccio (birthplace of
Napoleon) on the island of Corsica. We set off in the morning
for a walking tour—a repeat of our visit two years ago.
Lazing at a seaside café and shopping for French fashions
occupied the afternoon. Mainland
France welcomed us with even better weather.
Morning dawned sunny as we arrived in Nice and headed up the
scenic Riviera coast for a stroll around Cannes.
Traveling inland we stopped in Grasse and continued our French
fashion experience—this time learning the secrets of perfume making,
which naturally included the opportunity to buy some heavenly scents.
After lunch, St. Paul de Vence afforded the chance to visit
artists’ studios tucked into the buildings of a fortified town that
is virtually unchanged since the Middle Ages.
From
the old port of Marseille, we explored the city and remarked how much
it reminded us of New Orleans. With
ornate, filigreed balconies and delightful markets, its neighborhoods
exude a small town flavor in the midst of a big city.
A half hour climb from the Old Harbor past markets and through
residential areas rewarded us with scenic views from the imposing
Palais Longchamps. Crowning
the hilltop, its fountains and gardens are an unexpected delight and
certainly worth the walk. From
sidewalk cafés along the harbor, the Notre Dame de la Garde Cathedral
reflected sunshine and tranquility on the city below as we sipped
coffee and watched strollers on the esplanade.
Our day in Marseilles and Provence passed all too quickly as we
sailed in the early afternoon for Palma de Mallorca, Spain.
Known
for the manufacture of Majorca Pearls, Palma greeted us with the
sunshine and warmth for which this resort island is also noted.
After enjoying the stunning view from atop the round,
Gothic-style Bellver Castle, we headed through the countryside for
Valldemosa. It’s easy
to see why its most famed residents, Frederick Chopin and George Sand,
favored it. Michael
Douglas wisely chose this lovely village surrounded by neatly trimmed
olive and almond groves to build a villa.
To
complete our marathon through the Mediterranean, we arrived in our
final port of Barcelona. One
of our favorite cities, we enjoyed a stroll through Las Ramblas and
the Gothic Quarter before packing for home.
This was truly an ambitious itinerary.
With so many ports of call and different options for touring,
it was often difficult to choose which sites to visit.
Mel and I felt we made good selections from the Renaissance
tour offerings and we did some independent touring—conserving our
energy when necessary, yet hitting many diverse cities and villages.
How
did we fare with a port a day for 15 days? By day 11 we felt a
bit bedraggled and ready to go home; however, when it came time to
pack we were wondering if we could stow away on the next cruise...
The
Renaissance R6
It’s
small wonder that 42% of their guests return to Renaissance Cruises.
As past Renaissance passengers ourselves, we discovered a few
surprises on board our beautiful new R-Class vessel.
First off, the Category “B” suites have been eliminated in
favor of the very popular “C” staterooms with balconies.
More balcony staterooms and yet still fewer than 700
passengers. Nice going,
Renaissance! The
sumptuous Owners’ Suites are still available and remain one of the
best-kept secret bargains afloat.
The
biggest changes we noted were in the Casino Bar area.
Sadly, the piano is gone and the cozy seating arrangements have
been scaled back in favor of gaming options. The expanded Casino
was a big hit with other passengers who were pleased with winning at
the tables and machines. On
the other hand, a huge improvement is that the Sports Bar has been
dubbed Horizons Lounge and the somewhat intrusive slot machines
located there on previous sister-ships are gone.
More late-night entertainment options were offered in Horizons
and it was the fun spot to be after enjoying dinner and the variety of
shows and activities in the Cabaret Lounge.
An
Internet Café operated by Digital
Seas is standard on R-Class vessels.
Guests enjoyed a complimentary introduction and “surfed at
sea” for the remainder of the cruise, although satellite connections
were somewhat slower than on the R2 last April.
Savvy past passengers were seen with books in hand from the
beautiful library even before luggage was delivered in Venice.
Just a suggestion—if you pack your own paperbacks, leave the
ones you finish behind for the crew.
They really appreciate this thoughtful gesture.
Food!
I’m not a terribly picky eater, but Mel has some unusual
dietary considerations. His
request for cottage cheese as an appetizer and plain lettuce salad was
never a problem. Dinners
in the Grill and Italian Restaurant were excellent (and the menu
changed during the second week), however the Club Restaurant remains
our favorite. I can’t
help but rave over the seafood cannelloni we enjoyed one evening in
the Panorama Buffet as well as the chocolate mocha desserts.
It may sound strange but Renaissance serves up some of the best
French fries I’ve ever tasted and several of us shared platters of
them with lunch more than once. I
don’t want to go near a scale for a while… Kudos to the chefs,
Head Waitress Gillian, and the servers who made dining a pleasure.
Did I mention the crispy bread sticks, fabulous breads, flaky
croissants, and pizza? Afternoon
tea, late night sweets, 24-hour room service… I’m definitely
not going near a scale!
More
kudos go to Cruise Director Craig Cusanelli and the entertainment
staff for the variety of diversions available, even though they had to
scramble with a revised itinerary.
There really was something for everyone's taste, from dinner
music in the Club and evening piano interludes in the lobby to magic
and illusion and high-energy cabaret shows by the Paramount
Performers. Piano and
jazz concerts, trivia contests, Bingo, Karaoke, a passenger talent
show, and in-room movies were all appreciated. Art auctions are
a new feature on Renaissance ships. The spa and gym are still
first-rate. If anyone was
bored, it was really their fault.
It was often hard to find a seat in the card room and library
and I even had company in the steam room—a blessed haven for those
of us who suffer from sinus problems.
Service
on R-Class ships has always been excellent, but special mention has to
go to the housekeeping and wait staffs of the R6.
Exceptionally hard working, I’ve never seen so many smiles
and no request seemed too outlandish for them to try to grant it.
Getting
Around
The
shore excursion staff naturally works hard on a destination-intensive
itinerary and in this case they worked miracles to satisfy our needs
during that second unexpected day in Civitavecchia.
Complimentary or inexpensive shuttles from the pier to town
were available in some ports. Our
assigned berthing wasn’t always the most favorable location, but it
was astonishing to overhear someone complain that major sights were
too far away… sorry, but Rome wasn’t built in a day and there’s
no way to move it any closer to the coast.
Passengers experiencing problems were generally those who were
uninformed or ill prepared. Some
European cities are making an effort to be more accessible for the
physically challenged, but there was no excuse for a gentleman who
groused that he couldn’t walk very far on what was clearly described
as a walking tour of Valletta and Mdina. Shore Excursion
Manager Lisa Anderson and her staff were never too busy to cheerfully
answer questions and offer assistance.
Each
night a map highlighting major sites in the next port was delivered to
staterooms with the daily Great Times program.
Detailed maps were available either at the Reception Desk or
from nearby Tourism Offices ashore in most ports.
We were generally very pleased with the Renaissance shore
excursions we took. All
guides spoke good English and gave in-depth historic and cultural
commentary. While there are
less expensive ways to see what’s important to you, we found
ship’s excursions to be comparably priced to those we did on our
own. For instance, the
ship’s excursion to Valldemosa, Mallorca was cancelled so three of
us shared a taxi to tour. For
three hours, we paid $45 apiece and the ship’s tour was $40.
In Marseilles a tour would definitely be more cost-effective as
major sightseeing venues are spread out and taxis rather costly.
“Rome on Your Own” transportation at $80 may seem pricey
but, compared to Royal Caribbean’s similar option two years ago at
$62, it certainly wasn’t outlandish when you consider today’s
higher cost of petrol. Personally,
my comfort level doesn’t extend to public transportation, especially
Italian trains. In
Ajaccio and Marseille, mini sightseeing “tourist trains” took
visitors past sights of interest at low cost but with no explanation
about what they were seeing. The
Bus Turistic in Barcelona passes dozens of interesting sights and was
running in November, contrary to what I read previously.
Currency exchange
was not a regular feature on the R6 but we had no problem finding
exchanges and banks ashore. Some
vendors and shops accepted our dollars in lieu of missing a sale and
VISA and MasterCard are widely accepted in shops and ATMs.
Oddly, American Express was only usable in ATMs in Barcelona
and the currency exchanges there offered better value than the banks,
which charged high commissions for exchanging small amounts of pocket
cash. The opposite was true in France where we got good rates
and no commission at banks. Italian
currency exchanges charged commissions as a small percentage of the
transaction.
Wrapping It Up
Our journey was about to end as we
began packing for the trip home. Many of our fellow cruisers
acquired additional luggage during the cruise and we were no
exception. Our treasures will always remind us of the wonderful
cruise and fascinating destinations we experienced. Some moments
to remember... seeing old friends Anita and David Potter and making
new ones too numerous to mention, meeting eGroups
members on board, seeing another "traveling" chicken, our
delight with small towns and villages we explored, discovering the
frescoes in Pompeii, celebrating birthdays with Brad Ball and Marcia
Abramson, and especially Mel and Brian Major performing Karaoke as
"Sam and Dave."
But before we leave, "a dark and
stormy night" proved ominous one evening during after-dinner
cocktails. The R6 suddenly shuddered and bucked quite violently.
Rumored to be 40 feet high, a "rogue wave" apparently hit
us. Aside from some broken china, no one was injured. But
it was quite a jolt and we tilted noticeably enough to reach out and
hold on to anything within our grasp. What a good feeling to
know that we were on board such a sturdy and safety conscious vessel.
Was the wave really 40 feet high? I don't know for
certain, but it sure felt like it.
Each time we cruise with Renaissance,
we wonder how they can possibly top our experiences. Somehow
they always manage and we're looking forward to more Great Times and
varied itineraries. A very special thank you to our Master,
Captain Dimitrios Flokas and his officers for our safe passage and to
Hotel Manager Robert Steginga we offer our appreciation for a
comfortable voyage under his ever-vigilant watch. Last, but not
least, we can't forget Nadia, our beautiful and patient cabin
stewardess. Thank you all for your hospitality!
Finally,
I would like to express our gratitude to Brad Ball for hosting the R6
Inaugural Season press tour. We
wish you calm seas and happy sailing for many years to come. Bon
Voyage!
